After ten at night not only the Ringstrasse but all the business streets are comparatively deserted and one gets the idea that the Vienese must go to bed very early and is at a loss how to reconcile this with their reputation of being among the most pleasure loving people. Where in the world do they go and why are the beautiful streets left deserted? Not absolutely deserted for here and there are groups before a restaurant – and a few loitering along the walks, and when the theatres are out a few more appear. But where is every body?


Well, every Vienese rich or poor if on please sent rushes to the Prater just as soon as his work done all through the summer season[.] It is just across the river and everyone can walk or he may ride for 5 cents or get a carriage for 50. And what is the Prater but Central Park and Coney Island combined and separated by a hair line. The rich on one side and the poor on the other and they keep their places and each shimies on his own side. You wouldn’t believe how general this exodus to the Prater is until you had verified it. It is daily packed. The arrangements for dining are perfect and many orchestras and bands make music. Hundreds – I might say thousands of tables are highly spread with choice ____ as well as and as many others with sausages and beer.


One immense enclosure is made into a miniature Venice with gay shops and buildings threaded by many canals and with sidewalks and plazas for restaurants. This is the gayest seen of all. Gondolas may be had and many gondolas go about the canals with little gypsy bands of sinfers in them. All are decorated with lanterns and the lights about the place are so placed as to give a most fairy like effect. It is charming and you are never ready to leave it[.] Real Venice I am sure cannot be so gay or fascinating at night at his little paradise by the Prater.


Art galleries and King’s palaces and Royal Studs and Opera Houses and Libraries tyou see, but nothing so downright fetching as the Prater, is to be seen in Vienna. Vienna has a little over a million inhabitants and London they say has now over 7000000. Well they have builded their cities on widely different lines and I think the Vienese have the best of it for themselves and their posterity but perhaps not. They may be going to decay for all I know but they don’t look it: They are a good looking race, as they are said to be, and that’s more than any one would care to say of the English[.]


I was the only one of the party who wished to stop at Salzburg so I made the journey alone and arrive again just as the sun was setting in a blaze of glory on one side and the moon was rising, (also glory, but no blaze), on the other. The close of the ride was made lovely by the northern alps which are seen to the left and which bring all the passengers to one side of the train like as when a ship is ____ another, or reaching port.


The hotel to which one had better go in Salzburg, and to which he can easily walk, is the Hotel de _ Europe + like so many other European hotels it is distinguished by fine grounds pleasant electric lighted rooms, the delicate flavor of the cuisine and the charming ___ which they receiver and take care of you. Dinner is served on the terraces or piazzas and enlivened by an excellent orchestra and coffee served afterwards among spacious and beautiful drawing rooms, full at the coffee hour, of handsomely dressed women and men, discussing the days doings or places for the evening.
But long before you have washed in your room you have been wondering if there is any such fine scenery any where else in the world as this you see from your window.

Previous Page || Next Page