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(Milan)
It was late in the evening, and raining, when we reached Milan. By the dim
light of the street lamps we got a glimpse of the Cathedral as we passed
to our hotel. The next morning found us early at its open square, surveying
that marvel of architectural beauty and splendor. It surpasses all other
cathedrals we have seen. It is of white marble, grand in design, and most
elaborate in finish. Its niches are filled with statues, and its forest
of minarets is covered and crowned with them to the number of thousands.
You survey the imposing edifice with wonder, and on entering it, you are
astonished to find equal magnificence and decoration; and you conclude that
in the Milan Cathedral the sacred architecture of ages culminates, and that
here is the exuberant flowering of all ecclesiastical endeavor to impress
or captivate the outward sense. Other objects of interest at Milan are several
of its churches, that of St. Ambrose being very old – a row of ancient
columns of a Roman temple, standing in the centre of the city, yet in isolated
desolation – the grand Arch of Peace, commenced by Napoleon I –
and the celebrated painting, by Leonardo da Vinci, of the Last Supper. It
was painted on the wall of a refectory of an old monastery, and is much
injured and defaced by the plaster peeling off, and the attempts of inferior
artists to restore it. But you still see in it the work of a master. The
head of the Savior, the best preserved, is wonderful in combination of meekness
and majesty, and of divine authority and human sympathy. The expression
of the serene, heavenly face is inimitable! The features of the Apostles
and of Judas, are in admirable harmony with the scene represented.
(Mantua)
No one would visit Mantua for anything beautiful in or around the town
itself. Its situation is love and amidst marshes stagnant pools.
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