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Naples
is a large city, the largest in Italy, and has a fine picturesque situation,
but contains little in itself that interests the tourist. The city rises
gradually, from the beautiful bay, and the Castle of St. Elmo, like a crown
on its highest eminence. A few of the streets are fine, and here on air
of business thrift; but for the most part the town in filthy and seems to
be filled with a dirty and busy set of good formatting beggars. One, however,
may profitably spend several days in most delightful and exciting excursions
in the vicinity of Naples. Our first trips were to Herculaneum and Pompeii.
We greatly enjoyed our visit to these buried and partly excavated cities.
A half and hour will suffice for seeing all that can be shown of ancient
Herculaneum. It was no doubt a large and splendid city, but owing to the
harshness of the volcanic rock that covers it, very little of it has been
unfolded to the light.
We descended with candles to that portion of a splendid amphitheater which
has been opened, and from which many fine statues have been taken and removed
to the Museum in Naples. At some distance from this an excavation of a few
houses has been made, but there is nothing there to excite more interest.
Quite a bustling town has been built over the remains of this silent city
of the dead.
Pompeii, which was overwhelmed by the same remarkable eruption of Mt. Vesuvius
in the first century, has been excavated to a considerable extent, and we
wandered nearly a whole day through its death-like streets and dwellings,
and still we left much of it unseen. It is impossible to describe the appearance
of this singular city, and to convey adequately an idea of the profound
interest awakened at every step! We walked over long, well-formed streets
where the rut-marks made by the Roman chariots were as evident as if they
had wheeled along there yesterday.
We entered houses, and their various apartments, as
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