Travel Diary of Mrs. R.P. Eaton:
Europe, Egypt, and Palestine, ca. 1857

Click to view higher resolution image portion of the reins of harmak, and presently we saw through our glasses, fine views of massive columns seeming to rise up out of the soil, in which indeed they are deeply imbedded. These were a fashion of Luxor, and are long our boat was made fast to the east bank only a few minutes’ walk from these stupendous relics. After an early dinner we wandered among them. Some of the mud cabins in the present village of Thebes are built upon and among the grand old ruins of the temple of Luxor. Magnificent columns covered with hieroglyphics, and still standing in their original positions, are filled around and half covered with the accumulated dust and filth of ages, while some are entirely obscured by the wretched hovels that cluster about them, and can be seen only by entering these repulsive abodes, amid yelping ears, braying donkeys, cackling fouls, and dirty Arabs.

But as you look upon these old pillars of stone, exquisitely chiseled, wander through the halls that yet remain, and survey their vast gateways and colossal statues, you feel that they who built them were men of genius and power.

One of the most beautiful objects here is an obelisk of red granite, more than three thousand years old, and yet its appearance and its hieroglyphics are still fresh and unimpaired. Another of the same size firmly stood near it, but now it adorns the Place de la Concorde in Paris.

A mile and a half north of Luxor are the ruins of Harnak, the grandest temple in Egypt, if not in the world. I visited it just at evening, enjoying it as it turned as gorgeous a
sunset a mortal vision could desire. Ah! What varied scenes, What splendid pageants, what age of Glory and decay, that setting sun has witnessed here. It is impossible to describe harmak.

One must see it, or the will has no adequate idea of its Astonishing magnitude or beauty. Such an array of massive gates, towers, columns, obelisks, and statues is a perfect marvel. Think of a temple including its famous halls and apartments, twelve
hundred feet long and about five hundred feet wide, its massive walls rising like palisades, and its immense pillars

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