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    portion 
      of the reins of harmak, and presently we saw through our glasses, fine views 
      of massive columns seeming to rise up out of the soil, in which indeed they 
      are deeply imbedded. These were a fashion of Luxor, and are long our boat 
      was made fast to the east bank only a few minutes’ walk from these 
      stupendous relics. After an early dinner we wandered among them. Some of 
      the mud cabins in the present village of Thebes are built upon and among 
      the grand old ruins of the temple of Luxor. Magnificent columns covered 
      with hieroglyphics, and still standing in their original positions, are 
      filled around and half covered with the accumulated dust and filth of ages, 
      while some are entirely obscured by the wretched hovels that cluster about 
      them, and can be seen only by entering these repulsive abodes, amid yelping 
      ears, braying donkeys, cackling fouls, and dirty Arabs. 
       But as you look upon these old pillars of stone, exquisitely chiseled, 
        wander through the halls that yet remain, and survey their vast gateways 
        and colossal statues, you feel that they who built them were men of genius 
        and power.  
      One of the most beautiful objects here is an obelisk of red granite, 
        more than three thousand years old, and yet its appearance and its hieroglyphics 
        are still fresh and unimpaired. Another of the same size firmly stood 
        near it, but now it adorns the Place de la Concorde in Paris. 
      A mile and a half north of Luxor are the ruins of Harnak, the grandest 
        temple in Egypt, if not in the world. I visited it just at evening, enjoying 
        it as it turned as gorgeous a 
        sunset a mortal vision could desire. Ah! What varied scenes, What splendid 
        pageants, what age of Glory and decay, that setting sun has witnessed 
        here. It is impossible to describe harmak. 
      One must see it, or the will has no adequate idea of its Astonishing 
        magnitude or beauty. Such an array of massive gates, towers, columns, 
        obelisks, and statues is a perfect marvel. Think of a temple including 
        its famous halls and apartments, twelve 
        hundred feet long and about five hundred feet wide, its massive walls 
        rising like palisades, and its immense pillars 
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