Palestine – Jeppen to Jerusalem

The holy land! What profound and thrilling associations do these words awaken! The tender memories of childhood rustle like the moving of angel wings – the hallowed lessons received from parental lips and earliest teachers loved and revered, but now at rest, are revived – with many a wondrous story of Patriarch, prophet and the blessed Land of Life and Glory. And now as the land of Egypt recedes while the steamer sails out of the harbor of Alexandria, I am pleasantly and strangely impressed with the nearness of that wonderful territory around which so many interests cluster, and where I have so often been in thought, imagination and sacred revery. O Land of Promise! I have heard of the with the hearing of the ear, but now, by the favor of Providence, mine eyes shall soon see the, and long visions shall be realized.

On the second morning, March 15th, our steamer anchored off the ancient city of Jeppen – now commonly called Jaffa – and the Coast of Palestine was in view.

About sunrise we were ready to debark; and I was now for the first time to plant my feet on the soil of the Holy Land. The little boats that took us ashore glided along between the rocks to greet the city coming down to the water’s edge. Situated compactly on a conical or rounded hill, it has a fine appearance, as you see almost the whole city at a glance, as you approach it from the west or north west. Its grayish brown stone or plastered buildings rise picturesquely one alone another, till an old castle like edifice sits like a crown at the top.

But distance lends enchantment to the view. Enter, and you find it like other Oriental towns. The houses are huddled together in strange confusion, as if the builders cared nothing for coolness or convenience. The streets are narrow, crooked, and filthy; and as we wound up a frontline alley to our hotel, we passed a multitude of horses, camels and donkeys, waiting to carry away pilgrims or goods. Indications of considerable thrift and business and not wanting. Persons are moving about, hearing burdens on their heads; and I noticed that the people are of a lighter