Next morning early we visited the cathedral here which is an immense pile of red sandstone founded in 978 but six times burned. The present edifice is one of the grandest in Germany. Incidentally we saw a flower market were I suppose a thousand women were selling flowers though I did not see anyone buy any. I am sure I don’t see how they disposed of them.

What with churches and soldiers to support it is no wonder if the people are poor. 7000 soldiers are quartered at Mayence [Mainz] – but that is nothing! For Metz not far away, has 22000 and Strassburg 18000! Well, We saw some of them march. They make them march 6 to 8 miles to drill. They didn’t march very straight – dressed crooked and looked all about the street instead of straight ahead. But I am told they can march fifty miles and then fight and win, so that counts for more than good dressing.

Left Mayence [Mainz] early in the day for Heidelburg where I spent the day. As I was alone I got a guide, the first I have had. He was a very jolly Dutch boy and spoke English quite well. In fact he taught me all the German I could digest for one day. We tramped nearly all day going first to the Molkencur (whey cure) 200 feet higher up than the Castle. From there we climbed 905 feet more to the tower on the Konigsstuhl. The view from here is of course fine including the valleys of the Rhine and the Neekar the Hardt MTs + Black Forest, and a broad stretch of country and hills in all directions. The top is reached by a finely made shady foot path and as we rested frequently for a lesson in German we were not fatigued. The Castle which we visited afterwards is one of the largest ruins in the world and of such a character as to elude portraiture. The photographs of it look like any other big castle, but it is strangely fascinating to see. We stopped in it for and in the park which surrounds it (40 acres) for about 4 hours. I wish I could think of the name of Longfellows book about Heidelburg. I read it in Burlington and I remember now only how fine it is. I should say it was _____ if a new book of that hand had not just now been published [.] AT any rate I saw the big cask that holds 285000 bottles of wine. One of thee Castle towers (round) has walls 20 feet thick – a large fragment which fell off and lodged on a rock is still intact. There is also here the remarkable church with a partition running lengthwise though the middle, in one half of which catholic and the other half protestant services are performed.

It may be hard to believe that I also visited shops and University building and got a shave and a good dinner and arrived at Frankfort the same night – but I did.