Vienna Austria,
Sept. 4, 1895
Dear Father,
Your letter of Aug 12th was received here. The telegram for which you
inquire was only received on ship board with great joy and I have already
acknowledged both the telegram and joy. I am sorry I should seem so
tardy – where can the letters be?
I must also make suitable acknowledgement of the intelligence of the
death of Mr. H. Russell again for 2nd time related by you, and also
mentioned by others in the mail received here today.
I’m so delighted to hear again from everybody – that means
you and Nellie and Fred and Newyork, that I feel I ought to celebrate
and perhaps I shall if nothing happens to prevent.
I cannot so greatly congratulate myself that you send my letters to
Nellie as I should think she might be wearied with them. They are not
____ with a Samuel L Clemens wit nor guided by a Gladstonian intelligence.
Should I see any of the people mentioned I will embrace them at once,
but _____ I have not even glanced at any lists or registers of names.
My stop in Dresden was the pleasantest yet and I make no reservation
in saying how much you will like it when you go there. It cannot be
justly compared to great cities like Berlin and Paris, but it contains
some perfect pearls of Architecture – that you look at and look
at and then go back and look at for an hour at a time. This is notably
true of the Opera House which, smaller than the Berlin, less ornamental
than the Paris, stands by itself more beautiful than either and to me
to most beautiful of any building I have seen exteriorly. There is also
a very unique catholic church and the museum containing the picture
gallery is known as one of the most perfect works of architecture In
the world. It consists of seven large pavilions irregularly placed and
connected by smaller buildings nearly all the public buildings in Dresden
are in the rococo style, highly ornamented in carved stone now grown
old and beautiful[.] The new barracks - nearly equally ornate, has a
frontage of two and a half English miles and the Imperial Palace (containing
the finest collection of jewels and gems in the world which I would
like to describe if I had room) is also very extensive. There are many
other beautiful churches and public buildings and one quickly realizes
that a whole kingdom has been taxed sapped to build them. The bridges
are also very artistic – one of them in particular with bell shaped
piers and many fancy towers takes the eye at once.
The picture gallery is one of the 4 finest in the world, easily surpassing
those of London, Berlin, Vienna and Rome. The streets are remarkably
fine, the shops tempting, and the people look as though they knew a
thing or two.
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