Of late years many English people have settled here
and built fine houses. The residence quarter is one of the sights of
the town. All the residences in this quarter are in the Italian villa
style and are very extensive almost reminding one of public buildings.
But the window gardens, awnings, and tables on the lawns give the lie
to that idea[.]
Along the water front is a fine promenade much used and flanked by open
pavilion, restaurants and orchestras. Life in Dresden is made pleasant
for even the poorest.
Just now the city is elaborately trimmed for the celebration for the
battle of Sedan. The King of Saxony is the ally of Germany and during
the war in the Sedan as you know aided Germany. On the Anniversary of
this battle he is going (it is past now) to Berlin to be decorated by
the Emporer and to receive other distinctions. Hence the great preparations.
One of the pictures in the gallery here is Raphael’s Sistine Madonna
often spoken of as possessed of “Mysterious vision”[.] The
canvas is quite large and in a room by itself and is unquestionably
possessed of remarkable qualities besides of its near composition –
still, there are others I like better.
They have grand Opera the year round – but one cannot stay always
in Dresden on the Elbe, but must go to less attractive spots such perhaps
as Prague, which I will process to “cuss out” as we stay
in Paris.
On the way I fell in with a fine old gentlemen – Mr. Bouner of
New Orleans and his accomplished and youthful niece and if it hadn’t
been for them should have been miserable enough in Prague.
We got into a bad hotel – an almost unheard thing in this land
I would have you know – (especially in Germany which Prague is
not) and we agreed together that we didn’t like Prague one little
bit in the world.
So here goes – they told us that their grand exposition “was
beat Chicago” – we went out to see it and it was about like
20 county fairs rolled together – a prefect farce of a exposition.
They showed us their jew quarter – interesting if you like filth
any quantity of “sacred relics”. I will give you below a
few of the things the[y] showed us for a fee at the churches[.] Each
time, and you may just judge for yourself whether we were disgusted:
Item: the leg bone of the Virgin Mary
Item: the skulls of two of the twelve apostles
Item: a fragment of St. Peters brought there from Rome by the devil
Himself (if you pleas think of that)
Item: (by the jews) the arc of the covenant saved from
Jerusalem (I don’t think)
Item: handkerchief of Mary Magdalene and a few dozen more such things
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